Matthew Williamson presented a new look for AW13; transferring his vivid colour palette, signature embellishments and bold prints to a silhouette of relaxed tailoring. Risqué colour blocking paid off, with refreshing combinations of acid yellow, teal, magenta, tangerine and mint giving new warmth to winter dressing. Inspiration came from the Northern Lights, in both scenic prints and the ombré holographic sequins adorning evening gowns. There was a strong focus on party wear, appeasing Williamson’s devotees; yet day wear separates made a welcome appearance in the form of oversized collar-less coats, little pleated skirts and colourful silk shirts.
Taking a move away from the bold vivid prints that we all associate her with, Katrantzou put the focus firmly on a strong structured silhouette for her AW13 collection. Taking influence from the East, origami folds and wide rigid kimono sleeves helped to construct dramatic sculptural shapes. The iconic prints for which Katrantzou has become renowned were still apparent, although in a dark monochromatic colour palette; with dreamlike shadowy prints showcasing the beauty of the natural world. Overtly avant-garde, this darker approach from Katrantzou only further propelled her work into a high fashion masterpiece.
Moschino Cheap & Chic
Designer Francesca Rubino used the city where she was showing her new season collection as inspiration; presenting her own fusion of the classic Punk look with the brand’s feminine aesthetic. These pretty punks paraded down the catwalk in a strict colour palette of black, white, pink and leopard print. The signature hand-written prints and flirty frills were as one would expect from a Cheap & Chic runway; with chunky creepers, leather panelling, studded detailing and fingerless gloves adding to the punk theme.