As New York Fashion Week wraps up for the season, read our reviews of the Helmut Lang and Theory shows.
Nonchalant Parisian style met New York’s polished tailoring in Oliver Theysken’s first catwalk outing for Theory.
The Theysken’s Theory diffusion line has consolidated with the mainline, with Oliver merging his creative visions with Theory’s
reputation for elegant work-wear. The result was a highly wearable collection that still managed to verge on an avant-garde aesthetic with its use of sheer fabrics and directional silhouettes.
The muted colour palette was ideal for the office – although the garments were far from your typical everyday suiting. Sharply tailored jackets, neat little knits and elegant silk shirts were given a new lease of life when teamed with gossamer pencil skirts or dramatic asymmetric frilled skirts.
Theory are famed for their well-cut tailoring; shown here with their streamlined ankle-grazing trousers and belted blazers nipped in at the waist. By pairing classic wardrobe staples with one or two statement garments, Oliver is well on his way to redefining contemporary formal wear.
If you have been tracking next season’s key trends, take note of the Helmut Lang
catwalk show: texture is going to be literally huge for Autumn Winter 2014.
Oversized fluffy, furry and thickly knitted jumpers dominated the runway; effortlessly balanced with streamlined drainpipe trousers and sleek knee-length pencil skirts (the latter also appearing in furry options).
The brand’s loyal minimalist fans were also catered for with sharply cut long-line blazers, tailored trousers and an array of their staple elegantly draped dresses.
Adhering to their usual formula, the colour palette was stark and sharp; bold red, camel, black and white creating a bold statement whilst providing easily wearable separates that can be mixed and matched as desired.