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Style Notes: The SS19 Fashion Glossary

Style Notes: The SS19 Fashion Glossary

Fashion jargon can be hard to understand even for those in the industry, not least because of the speed with which it moves. One season we’re all crazy for a particular shade of primrose yellow, the next it’s marigold. One season it’s acceptable to refer to things as ‘hot’, the next it’s not. We’re not trying to make ‘fetch’ happen, but the struggle is real. You get the jist. There’s talk of warcore and scumbros, which sound more like computer games than trends. The former actually refers to a military take on utility and workwear, the latter an approach to dressing similar to that of a Californian teenage boy circa 1997. From the fashion journalist’s penchant for referring to garments in the singular (‘a trouser’) to the mystical concept of trend forecasting (the people that do this are essentially clairvoyants), the lingo can be impenetrable. To help you blag your way through the season, we’ve pulled together a glossary of SS19’s most important terms. Speak for yourself.

An Off-White indigo denim gilet with multiple pockets

ACCESSOMORPHOSIS

A term coined by Virgil Abloh, the multi-hyphenate creative and designer of both Off-White and Louis Vuitton. ‘Accessomophosis’, he explained to the Financial Times, half in jest, half in earnest, relates to the point at which an accessory morphs into a garment. See: belt bags transforming into tops and utility jackets with more pockets than a fisherman’s. Also, a highly practical storage solution for the modern man.

A tan leather Burberry belt bag with the new TB logo clasp

BELT BAG

Have you been living under a rock? Belt bags, or bum bags if you’re feeling fruity, are now a mainstay of every fashion insider’s wardrobe. The accessory’s success is in part thanks to the vision of the aforementioned Virgil Abloh and his peers. Streetwear staples that combine form with function and a touch of nostalgia have had huge success in recent seasons. Belt up.

A pale pink Palm Angels hooded sweatshirt with black type, graphics and a logo on the back

CALIFORNIA GIRL

California girls are fine, fresh and fierce. Yes, these aren the lyrics to a Katie Perry song, but they’re also an accurate description of this free-spirited trend characterised by sun-shiny shades of pastel pink and yellow, laid-back-but-luxurious tie-dye prints, playful sunglasses with coloured lenses and chunky flatform sandals. Channel the look in pieces by skate-culture inspired, LA-based brand Palm Angels.

Lanvin mesh runner trainers

DAD-CORE

Characterised by fleeces, faded straight-leg jeans and sporty trainers, dad dressing, or ‘dad-core’ is comprised of the kind of clothes you would have seen young fathers wearing back in 1992. A close relation of ‘norm-core’, to the untrained eye it can feel like a bit of a time-warp. Look closer, though, and you’ll spot high-fashion hallmarks in the cut, oversized silhouette and colour palette. Not to mention a pervasive sense of irony and an intelligent social commentary about modern fatherhood and masculinity. If you know, you know.

A pink silky Love Shack Fancy dress with a floral print in a bias cut with puff sleeves

FOR THE FRILL OF IT

From the blousy frills of Love Shack Fancy to the artisan-inspired craft of Chloe’s fringed pieces, this season we’re getting a thrill out of frills, florals and lace. An oh-so-pretty rejection of structured minimalism (more on that later), this trend is one for the woman who likes to indulge in a bit of old-school femininity. Think prairie dresses, guipure lace and broderie anglaise. Chunky lace-up boots keep things sweet but not saccharine, or go all-out in heels for a perfect wedding guest look.

Palm Angels tracksuit jacket with neon stripe sleeve

HIGH-VIS

Are you a bit of an exhibitionist? This trend is for those who like to be the centre of attention. Fluorescent garments, accessories and details are no longer the reserve of cyclists and workmen. Harking back to the ‘80s and more recent mid-00s new rave phenomenon, neon is a firm streetwear favourite championed by brands like Off-White, Palm Angels and Heron Preston. A high-visibility statement that is here to stay.

A Gucci Queen Margaret handbag with white leather handles and trim, beige Gucci GG canvas and red and green web stripe with a bee clasp encrusted with pearls

LADYLIKE CHARM

Style icons include: Audrey Hepburn, Jackie Kennedy and Catherine Deneuve. Pay homage to these beacons of elegance and sophistication with Gucci’s retro-chic dresses and vintage-inspired bags. If you’re not ready to graduate onto pillbox hats and boxy blazers, ease yourself in with pearl-encrusted accessories, timeless cat-eye sunglasses and Burberry’s pussy-bow blouses. Half Sloane Ranger, half Hollywood starlet, bows, pearls and hair slides are the order of the day for this prim and polished look.

Fendi white leather low top trainers embossed with the double F and no laces

MINIMALISM REDUX

This ‘90s trend has been given a modern update by brands including Victoria Beckham and Helmut Lang who specialise in understated style and great cuts. Think slim-fit cycling shorts, oversized white shirts, slip dresses and a colour palette of black, white and, if you’re feeling adventurous, beige. If you’ve felt overwhelmed by the riotous colour and anti-fashion aesthetic that has heavily influenced the runways recently, the barely-there sandals and spaghetti straps of minimalism will feel like a breath of fresh air.

Lanvin oversized stripe shirt in blue

RELAXATION STATIONS

Take a break, relax and travel back in time to a pastoral Mediterranean scene or somewhere by the seaside in the pre-internet age. An antidote to the hype, technicality and speed that characterises fashion’s current mood, we’ve seen a resurgence in back-to-basics, old-world charm with relaxed-fits, natural fabrics and subtle prints taking centre stage, particularly for holiday wardrobes. Wear this oversized Lanvin shirt with undone buttons, turned-up chinos

Gucci flashtreck trainers in white leather and mesh with straps and a chunky sole

TREK TRAINERS

Trek trainers and their close relation trail runners are part of a sub-genre of fashion that owes a debt to the world of outdoor pursuits. High fash and the wilderness might be unlikely bedfellows, but it’s all part of a wider discourse around the accessibility of style and the modern human’s desire for practical clobber – albeit with a somewhat impractical price tag. Cue: irony. A descendent of the ugly trainer, Gucci’s Flashtreck is part sneaker, part hiking boot, part awesome.