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The Roundup: Fashion Month Illustrated

The Roundup: Fashion Month Illustrated

Fashion month is over, and we can confirm that it’s been a pleasure. There’s been the usual fashion week drama, although we have to say that this year things were even more exciting. From Gucci’s Alessandro Michele staging his show in a Sci-fi-esque set of plexiglass tunnels circling a giant pyramid, to that one-shoulder (to put it politely) dress worn by Nicki Minaj, the rocket launch at Chanel to the glamorous night-time shenanigans at the LOVE x Burberry LFW party, it’s been a month to remember. True-to-form, we fell in love with Alexander McQueen all over again, with a folksy collection inspired by the ancient stone circles and churches of Cornwall, and are dying to get our hands on the new patent croc Mulberry collection.

Everyone is sad that it’s over, so we’ve rounded up some of the most iconic shows of the month, complete with a chic, visual interpretation of the collections by illustrator Billie Blue Williams. And if that still doesn’t make you feel any better, find comfort in the fact that news has just broken about the latest Versus Versace campaign – featuring Adwoah Aboa and Zayn Malik, it was shot on iPhone by Gigi Hadid. Bisoux.

GUCCI, MILAN

First impressions: Graffiti and Hollywood glamour in a sci-fi wonderland.

We’ve already covered Gucci in detail, but we feel that one of the biggest and most coveted names in fashion deserves a recap. Showing both women’s and menswear, Alessandro Michele’s SS17 collection was all that we’ve come to expect of Gucci as the feted Creative Director continues to pull the storied house into a new era. Vintage inspiration from across eras (‘50s, ‘70s, ‘80s – think satin Hollywood gowns and glittering lame disco frills) was cross-referenced with global inspirations (Japanese vintage parasols scrawled with graffiti) and accented with a tangible sci-fi theme. Every outfit was a show in itself, of skill and of what RTW clothes can be if pushed to the limits of creativity. Having said that, by dismantling each outfit, they become fabulous but wearable statement pieces – floral-print separates, eveningwear dripping with sequins, trophy jackets and luxe accessories. Staged in a series of glass tunnels circling a giant pyramid, the occult references were positioned in a futuristic context, making this collection another glittering and decadent feast for the eyes.

Shop Gucci.

MONCLER GRENOBLE, NEW YORK

First impressions: Let it snow so we can wear our Moncler!

We’ve only just, barely, come out the other side of winter, and Moncler has got us all excited about pulling on our puffas again already. Staged in New York, in a dreamy winter wonderland decked out like a ballroom, strung with chandeliers and billowing white curtains, the French alpine brand presented a super-luxe collection of seriously desirable winter warmers. More than après-ski-appropriate, this was French mountain style reimagined for a luxe-loving connoisseur and drawn out to the limits of creativity. Featherweight nylon, down jackets, gossamer-fine knits, furs and fair isle are all fixtures of the Moncler runway. This season, however, surprises came in the form of acid-house block colours, folk-inspired prints and pink furs. Aside from the usual offering of ski-tested jackets, white capes were finished with gold hard-wear and hats, gloves and footwear were outsized and crafted from coloured fur. One particularly memorable print came in the form of black and white Dalmatian spots. See you on the slopes.

Shop Moncler.

BURBERRY, LONDON

First impressions: Reimagined London classics for the modern woman.

Despite being a fashion house most loved for its tradition, Burberry has led the way in shaking up the fashion calendar with their see-now-buy-now shows. Because who plays by those rules anymore? Showing his men’s and women’s collections in a former bookstore, filled with the British sculptor Henry Moore’s monumental works, Creative Director Christopher Bailey payed homage to the world of British art with the collection. Mirroring the sloping curves of the sculptor’s abstracted bodies, macramé, cobweb-fine lace and hand-sewn feathers contributed to the couture-feel of the show, with a number of unique, haute pieces featuring in the runway finale, including a cloak of jewels that awakened the magpie in us all. Shirts featured heavily, finished with ruffles, pin-tucks and super-sized cuffs, but the most striking re-imagined classic was the trench coat. Cut low on the chest, with wide sleeves and oversized, asymmetrical proportions, embellished with feathers and worn with little underneath, this was the trench redefined for the modern woman.

Shop Burberry.

VALENTINO, PARIS

First impressions: Romantic goth girls in biker boots.

Candy colours and acres of tulle, Valentino AW17 saw Pierepaolo Piccioli combine modernity with romantic Victoriana. Unmistakably Valentino, the collection was gothic and feminine, with a few pleasant surprises thrown in. Swing dresses without waists fell to just below the knee, finished with high necks wrought in frilled lace and satin, complimented by striking prints that referenced the ‘80s Memphis art movement. The colour scheme took us through every shade of pink, from acid rose to deep fuschia, whilst duck-egg blue pleats and embroidered camel coats broke up the sea of blush. Velvet, red tulle, printed silk and cascading sequins emphasised soft silhouettes, juxtaposed with knee high leather and combat boots that gave each look some edge – sure to be the must-have shoe of the season. But it was the bags that we, predictably, fell in love with. Soft coloured leather, box shapes, chain straps, quilting, mini bags and signature Rockstuds all ensured that Valentino retained its title as the home of Parisian accessories.

Shop Valentino.